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If you head west of Rodovani, after about a couple of kilometres you will find a very picturesque village called Maza. Make a stop here and visit the Byzantine church of Aghios Nikolaos, decorated with beautiful paintings that tell the story of the saint. These were made by Ioannis Pagomenos, the well known Cretan artist of the 14th century who combined the Byzantine icon-painting tradition with many elements of the local Cretan school. From Maza, you can continue driving southwest to Paleochora and visit beautiful villages or towards Kandanos (nortwest direction).
Yrtakina (Greek Υρτακίνα) was an ancient city in south-west Crete. The city was located between the existing villages Temenia and Papadiana, on Kastri hill, where the ruins of the city are situated. Yrtakina is thought to have been an ancient city of the Hellenistic era, dating from around 323 BC, and the capital city of the Achaeans of West Crete. Situated at c.900 metres above sea level on a rocky hill called Kastri, its fortress-like position encircled by two ‘Cyclopian’ defensive walls gave security in troubled times. In peaceful periods Yrtakina formed an economic alliance with the neighbouring cities of Elyros, Lissos, Tarra, Syia and Pikilassos (the Confederation of Oreii, 300 BC), and had its own currency.In 1938-39 excavations revealed a temple from the 4th Cent. BC, dedicated to the God Pan, the protector of shepherds and flocks. A statue of Pan, together with a carved gravestone, is now exhibited in Chania’s Archeological Museum.
A short walk up to, and an exploration of the site makes an interesting day out from Paleohora. Drive to the outskirts of Temenia, turn right towards Maza and Sougia, and park where a sign indicates ‘Ancient Hyrtakina’, with a track off right. This lane also leads to the exquisitely beautiful 13th century church of Christ the Saviour, shaded by trees, and not to be missed.
Tthethox believes that Yrtakos was the capital city of the ancient Achaians, and was destroyed by the Dorians. The area of the city was in Vlithia Valley towards the sea. There were two cyclopic walls, parts of which can be seen today. They were integral to a city-castle, where watch and defense soldiers lived with their families.The city was autonomous; it issued its own coins, one displaying the images of a Cretan wild goat and a bee named Tarra. Another coin depicted a dolphin and an eight-ray star. Yrtakina was one of the Cretan cities that allied with Eumenes B’.At the Acropolis there was found a headless marble statue of Pan; it has legs and feet of a goat, and wears mantle. The statue belongs to the roman period.In 1939, Theophanidis excavated the Temple of Pan.
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