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The village of Melidoni is found approximately 27km east of Rethymno in the Municipality of Geropotamos. The village now has developed considerably although there are still some old Venetian buildings to be seen in the back streets if you take a walk through. During the summer the village is extremely lively, with dancing and public events. On Clean Monday, the last day before Lent, there is an ancient ceremony only held in a very few places on Crete, marking the day with much festivity including fancy dress. The village has its own bakery, petrol station and small grocery shops as well as tavernas and kafanea together with the inevitable kiosk as found all over Greece.
The village developed into one of the largest in the Milopotamos district during 17th century and was one of those seized by the Turks after their advance from Rethymnon to Heraklion in 1646. Both before and after the Revolution of 1821 almost all foreign travelers visiting Crete came to Melidoni due partly to its fantastic cave.
However the cave became more infamous in 1824 when, during the Revolution some 250 unarmed villagers, including women and children were suffocated when the entrance was sealed and fires lit by the Turks thrown in to the cave following a three month siege. Not until 1834 when the English explorer Robert Pashley visited Melidoni did Manolis Kirmizakis, the only survivor of the events, inspect the cave discovering the bones of the martyrs.Today there is a large sarcophagus within the cave containing the bones of those killed and the monument is now considered extremely important in defining the independent Cretan character. The beaches of Bali and Panormo are easily accessible being approximately 9km distant.
The beach is pebbly surrounded by rocks and cliffs. It is worth visiting by those who like privacy and enjoy cretan landscape. If you walk these 2km from the Skepasti village to the beach in spring, you will love it !
Toget to the village of Melidoni, drive along the old road from Rethymno to Heraklion, turning left at the small town of Perama.
Perama is the regional centre, and it’s worth spending a couple of hours here to soak up the atmosphere of a small Cretan town that has been left untouched by tourism. When you get to Melidoni, you’ll find the cave, another 2km away, signposted.
There is no infrastructure at the cave – entrance is free. The cave comprises several chambers with impressive stalactites – a torch is recommended to enjoy the cave fully.
There are stairs and a path leading to the cave. Melidoni cave is famous across Crete due to its history: in 1824 all 300 inhabitants of Melidoni hid there, trying to flee the wrath of the Turkish army.
However, the Turkish army soon found them, and all 300 died from asphyxiation when the army lit a big fire at the cave’s entrance.
The Bali Monastery is located overlooking the settlement of Bali, 37 km from Rethymnon. The monastery is also known as Atalis Monastery from the Venetian name for the seaside village, which was derived from the name of the ancient town of Astalis. The monastery is believed to have been founded in the 17th century. Its church is dedicated to St John and its façade has examples of the renaissance architectural style.
After the failure of the 1866 revolution, however, the Turks caught on, and they launched a fierce attack against all monasteries in the region.The historical Arkadi monastery went up in flames, and the Turks destroyed the monastery of John the Baptist and killed the monks. Half-ruined and forgotten, the monastery went on “living” until 1941, when the last of its monks died. In the forty years that followed, it was looted by men and ruined by the forces of Nature, so that it was no longer recognisable.In 1983, though, Father Anthimos came to live here, and aided by the Department of Byzantine Antiquities, the EOT and the faithful who never gave it up, he restored the monastery. Twelve years later, the outcome is incredible. Not only is it impossible to tell what condition the place was in, but the visit will charm you, especially if you treat yourself to a nice picnic in the shaded yard behind the church.Bring a snack, sit at the wooden table, and let your eyes wander over the sea. Father Anthimos will offer you cool water and refreching apricots right fromthe tree.
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