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Places near Beach
Viena beach is located 10km west of Paleochora and 93km southwest of Chania. Krios beach is 9km west of Paleochora, at the end of the road, although the E4 footpath continues to Elafonisi.
There’s a twice-a-day bus from Paleochora to Koundoura - Krios (around 7.00am and 2.00pm, check in the bus station), or drive/take a taxi ; the 2-hour walk through Koundoura is uninspiring once the road leaves the coast, and not recommended.
As with Kadros, we first visited Viena with Tony Fennymore, and his notes, included here, will provide much information as to what to see and look for there. From the car park and taverna on Krios beach, walk along the shore to a rocky promontory, and climb over this to a small sheltered bay with a rock islet offshore. At the far end of the beach the path heads inland, way-marked with cairns and E4 black/yellow paint, climbing to join a rough track. Leave the track at a cairn, and take a path, left, gradually losing height, eventually veering left down a rather loose gully to reach the sea.
Viena is a fascinating place, where “there would appear to be a partially man-made anchorage out of a natural, protected harbour, and the remains of a Hellenistic/Roman sanctuary.” On the shore are the broken remains of several marble columns, which Tony believed once formed a temple here. “The actual building appears to have been located just a short distance back from the shoreline, where there is a raised platform for a room, with a ramp down to the sea, and the columns appear to have formed a portico/arcade at the front.” Where the columns came from, or how they arrived here, is a Stonehenge-like enigma, as they “are of marble or a type of red granite which does not appear to be of local origin.”
So why was a temple built here? Tony thought that it “could well have been a sanctuary or place of worship, and acted as a place of pilgrimage when voyaging around the headland”, and where libations and offerings were made before or after a long and hazardous sea journey.
Shards and fragments of pottery are everywhere, the remains of vessels once containing oil or wine. Tony speculates on the importance of the natural cave in the outcrop high above the cove. “The cave is no doubt the ‘key’ to the site, although there is no evidence whatsoever of any human habitation or use of the cave as a place of worship. In ancient times it could have been deemed to be a ‘home’ of one of the Gods/Goddesses, and it may have been capable of producing natural sounds, ie. from the wind – a sign that the Gods were speaking, or a Siren.” The Sirens were mythical sea-nymphs who lured passing sailors to their deaths with their sweetness of song. Odysseus, who possibly passed this way, filled his crew’s ears with wax, and lashed himself to the ship’s mast, to avoid such a fate. The climb to the cave takes around 20 minutes, and provides a fine retrospective view of the bay, but nothing of historical importance.
The water level in Hellenistic times (323 – 67BC) would have been far deeper than now, due to the raising of the level of the shoreline at this end of the island. “The cove/lagoon has a natural mole to form this protected anchorage, and it would appear that rocks have been cleared away from the cove so as to facilitate the mooring of boats. No doubt the cove was an ideal lair for pirates, and the site would have been looted.”
Water was of course essential, and “to the east of the platform is evidence of a well or pit, an important feature insomuch as the anchorage could well have been a stopping place to replenish water supplies of the boats.”
So what happened here? “From the various positions of the columns, the sanctuary was either badly damaged by an earthquake, or some attempt has been made to remove the columns for re-use.” That is, the site was destroyed and ransacked. Quietly contemplating before walking back to Krios, sitting on a column brought here over two thousand years ago, only one thing is certain – we shall never really know..
Crete though has an average of 300 days of sunshine annually, and statistically 22 of these fall in November, so don’t put the walking gear away yet. But shorter days require shorter walks, and this one, from Krios beach over to Viena, approx. 45 minutes each way, is ideal.
The 10km walk from Krios to Elafonisi is described in our book ‘Ten Walks around Paleohora’ by Bob & Lynne Tait, available from ‘To Delfini’ bookshop in Paleochora.
There’s a twice-a-day bus from Paleochora to Koundoura - Krios (around 7.00am and 2.00pm, check in the bus station), or drive/take a taxi ; the 2-hour walk through Koundoura is uninspiring once the road leaves the coast, and not recommended.
As with Kadros, we first visited Viena with Tony Fennymore, and his notes, included here, will provide much information as to what to see and look for there. From the car park and taverna on Krios beach, walk along the shore to a rocky promontory, and climb over this to a small sheltered bay with a rock islet offshore. At the far end of the beach the path heads inland, way-marked with cairns and E4 black/yellow paint, climbing to join a rough track. Leave the track at a cairn, and take a path, left, gradually losing height, eventually veering left down a rather loose gully to reach the sea.
Viena is a fascinating place, where “there would appear to be a partially man-made anchorage out of a natural, protected harbour, and the remains of a Hellenistic/Roman sanctuary.” On the shore are the broken remains of several marble columns, which Tony believed once formed a temple here. “The actual building appears to have been located just a short distance back from the shoreline, where there is a raised platform for a room, with a ramp down to the sea, and the columns appear to have formed a portico/arcade at the front.” Where the columns came from, or how they arrived here, is a Stonehenge-like enigma, as they “are of marble or a type of red granite which does not appear to be of local origin.”
So why was a temple built here? Tony thought that it “could well have been a sanctuary or place of worship, and acted as a place of pilgrimage when voyaging around the headland”, and where libations and offerings were made before or after a long and hazardous sea journey.
Shards and fragments of pottery are everywhere, the remains of vessels once containing oil or wine. Tony speculates on the importance of the natural cave in the outcrop high above the cove. “The cave is no doubt the ‘key’ to the site, although there is no evidence whatsoever of any human habitation or use of the cave as a place of worship. In ancient times it could have been deemed to be a ‘home’ of one of the Gods/Goddesses, and it may have been capable of producing natural sounds, ie. from the wind – a sign that the Gods were speaking, or a Siren.” The Sirens were mythical sea-nymphs who lured passing sailors to their deaths with their sweetness of song. Odysseus, who possibly passed this way, filled his crew’s ears with wax, and lashed himself to the ship’s mast, to avoid such a fate. The climb to the cave takes around 20 minutes, and provides a fine retrospective view of the bay, but nothing of historical importance.
The water level in Hellenistic times (323 – 67BC) would have been far deeper than now, due to the raising of the level of the shoreline at this end of the island. “The cove/lagoon has a natural mole to form this protected anchorage, and it would appear that rocks have been cleared away from the cove so as to facilitate the mooring of boats. No doubt the cove was an ideal lair for pirates, and the site would have been looted.”
Water was of course essential, and “to the east of the platform is evidence of a well or pit, an important feature insomuch as the anchorage could well have been a stopping place to replenish water supplies of the boats.”
So what happened here? “From the various positions of the columns, the sanctuary was either badly damaged by an earthquake, or some attempt has been made to remove the columns for re-use.” That is, the site was destroyed and ransacked. Quietly contemplating before walking back to Krios, sitting on a column brought here over two thousand years ago, only one thing is certain – we shall never really know..
Crete though has an average of 300 days of sunshine annually, and statistically 22 of these fall in November, so don’t put the walking gear away yet. But shorter days require shorter walks, and this one, from Krios beach over to Viena, approx. 45 minutes each way, is ideal.
The 10km walk from Krios to Elafonisi is described in our book ‘Ten Walks around Paleohora’ by Bob & Lynne Tait, available from ‘To Delfini’ bookshop in Paleochora.
The secret treasure that lies a few kilometers southeast from Elafonissi, “Kedrodasos”, (cedar forest) is one of the few coastal forests in Greece. Kedrodasos forest is located in west Crete, Chania Prefecture and 78 km far from Chania City.
Kedrodasos is located very close to Elafonissi island - beach and the road which leads to that magical place is a dirt road, perpendicular to the main road. Following the dirt road, we stop at a small square and from there and as we walk along a path, after a few seconds, we see a beach of amazing beauty.
The cedars reach the beach and they are the only tenants. There you will find neither sun beds as at Elafonissi nor canteens, so you should obtain the necessary things. Away from the noise of an organized beach, Kedrodasos offers the perfect setting for an alternative escape. The region, however, demands attention and respect. Please, do not throw any garbage in this little paradise, and certainly do not cut even a small sprig of a cedar tree as it grows just one centimetre in a year!
The picture is unique as the beauty and tranquillity of the place continues to surprise the senses even when the moon has taken the position of the sun.
Kedrodasos is a few hundred metres west of Elafonissi beach in west Crete and 77km far from Chania City, one of the most beautiful beaches. A hidden paradise for many years since only few knew how to actually get there. A fantastic place to camp and enjoy some serenity away from the thousands of tourists who invade nearby Elafonissi.
The beach has sand and rocks and a beautiful cedar forest. Bear in mind that there are no facilities for accommodation or food.
Kedrodasos Or “Cedars Grove” in English. The real issue is how long will the name apply to the area since cedars grow only a centimeter per year, and certain humans (?) cut roots and branches of the trees for their campfires. (On Press: catastrophe struck earlier than we thought since a criminal opened a road with a bulldozer destroying the idyllic scenery in order to establish a beach bar!)
The beach has sand and rocks and a beautiful cedar forest. Bear in mind that there are no facilities for accommodation or food.
Kedrodasos Or “Cedars Grove” in English. The real issue is how long will the name apply to the area since cedars grow only a centimeter per year, and certain humans (?) cut roots and branches of the trees for their campfires. (On Press: catastrophe struck earlier than we thought since a criminal opened a road with a bulldozer destroying the idyllic scenery in order to establish a beach bar!)
Krios is one of the many nice pebbly beaches on the Paleochora region. On the west, one small beach is separated by the main beach by some rocks.
Krios is situated 1 km west from Kountoura area, where many greenhouses are located and 11 m from Paleochora.
Between Paleochora and Krios Beach you can find Grammeno beach, Karavopetra Beach and Pachia ammos.
Krios is situated 1 km west from Kountoura area, where many greenhouses are located and 11 m from Paleochora.
Between Paleochora and Krios Beach you can find Grammeno beach, Karavopetra Beach and Pachia ammos.
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