Finikidia

In the remote and awe-inspiringly beautiful south of Crete, where grazing goats wander about in mountains that slope down into the turquoise Libyan sea there is a place so small it’s hardly a place at all. It does however have a name, and perhaps that is what makes it a place. 

Agios Pavlos it is called and once you’re there you might be tempted to believe you’re not in Crete, or even in Greece or Europe at all but a paradisal parallel universe where all is good and heavenly.Three weeks ago I had the great fortune to be there, sitting in a lounge chair on the patio with a panoramic view of the Libyan sea and the bay with its silhouette of a sleeping dragon. Sitting there, freshly made orange juice in one hand a good book in the other, waiting for the hottest hours of the day to be over and then walk down the stone staircase to the pebble beach, snorkel and hopefully spot another octopus, life seemed pretty sweet. Almost unbearably so, if that’s possible. You know when you can’t quite believe your own luck. Or even your own eyes as the view is simply to stunning to seem real. Especially if you’re from Sweden and not quite used to how very bright sunshine seems to both bring out and fade colors.The beauty of Agios Pavlos, besides the obvious, is it’s remoteness. There’s almost nothing there and it’s absolute bliss. The guests are quiet, the compulsory reggae tunes as well. There isn’t really much else to do but read, sip on something nice and cold (when I was there it was too hot to eat – unless homemade sorbet counts), walk down the stairs to the small beach and repeatedly go for a swim. The water so clear and such an amazing color of azure blue, green and turquoise you pinch yourself over and over again to make sure this isn’t just a beautiful dream. Should you however, unlike me, grow bored with this kind of leisure you may go hiking in the mountains, but that is about it. But on the other hand, what else does one need besides a view, a hammock and a cute dog while on vacation?If you want to escape reality a while rooms at Hotel Agios Pavlos are very reasonably priced but should they be fully booked there are a couple of other alternatives in the surroundings as well. Don’t forget your books, your snorkeling equipment and sun block.

Agios Pavlos is some 58 km southeast of Rethymnon (Rethymno Perfecture), and 13 km from the main road to Agia Galini (19 km from the village of Akoumia)

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Agios Pavlos - Sachturia (The Agios Pavlos Sandhill is the next beach to west): Agios Pavlos, is easily reached by taking the turn off from the main road which links Rethymno (55km far from Rethimno City) with Agia Galini. One heads to the villages of Upper and Lower Saktouria and then is is gentle drive down the hill to the coast and ends at Agios Pavlos. Agios Pavlos, has a hotel, several rent rooms establishments and tavernas. 

However, despite it distance from an large town, it is surprisingly busy especially over weekends July and August when the Greeks enjoy their summer holidays and come to spend it in this charming bay. It is just as popular over weekends with families. It is a very picturesque setting the surrounding hills rising quite steeply from this lovely protected and safe bay.

There are some unique rock formations which often feature on postcards. Away from the main cove there is a massive sand dune, which allows one to go down to a long sandy beach of Agios Pavlos and stretches endlessly along this coast. In and around the bay there are excellent snorkeling possibilities including caves which can be explored.

There are daily excursion boats which stop in the bay to allow passengers on and off. This area is also the home to several yoga schools one of the best known, is in Agios Pavlos. It is about 23 kms from Spili and approximately the same distance from Agia Galini where most services are available.